Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Riga and the Archives

I had a great time in Gdansk, it is a beautiful city.

Gdansk was followed up by a long journey to Riga via Warsaw. I've been in Latvia for the past week and a half, staying with relatives, and spending most of my days in the historical archives researching family history.

I've learned a lot of interesting things. My time in the archives just flies by. I can't wait to be doing it professionally!

I've also caught up with some friends, visited relatives, and bought a variety of books (of course).

On Sunday though, it is off to London! I will be flying there and then spending a week sorting out baggage shipping and bank accounts, and then I get on a plane to go back to Canada.

This long journey is almost over... and then new adventures begin!

Friday, November 27, 2009

Berlin

I have now made my way to Gdansk in Poland. But first - Berlin!

I spent four nights in Berlin, staying with a couple from Couchsurfing that I was introduced to via my host in Lubeck. We had a good time, spending evenings playing the board game Settlers of Catan (I won two out of three of the games).

My days in Berlin were mostly spent investigating various sights related to the Berlin Wall. Having been to the Baltics, I have been to places that were behind the "Iron Curtain", so to speak, but it was very interesting to be in a place where that barrier was a very visible reality of life. I also got to browse some of the Christmas markets there in the city (they opened across Germany this past Monday, I'm told). Ate too much tasty food.

Caught the train to Gdansk early this morning. Well, more precisely, caught the train to Szczecin, where I had five minutes to find my next train, with no signs anywhere indicating what trains were on what platforms, so I took it on faith from a guy pointing vaguely in the direction of that one and saying "Gdansk" that that was the right one. I asked a couple of other people, and they seemed fairly certain, but I was still a bit nervous, though settled in for the five and a half hour train ride anyways. I was then joined in my compartment by a reggae musician from Jamaica, who, when entering the compartment, also asked if the train was going to Gdansk, and my answer was "I hope so". We had a nervous hour or so until the conductor came around to check our tickets, and since we weren't thrown off the train, we must have been on the right one, so we relaxed after that and had some good conversation.

Eventually the train pulled into Gdansk, and I found my way to my hostel. Then I headed out again to meet up with a local Couchsurfer for dinner, and we had a lovely meal at a nice restaurant, where I had hazelnut hot chocolate, mushroom soup, pierogies with wild boar and mushrooms in a rosemary and bacon sauce, followed by creme brule with lemon sorbet for dessert - and all for a very reasonable price!

Now I'm back at the hostel, and itching to get to bed, since I had to get up at 6am this morning. Goodnight!

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Lubeck!

Back in Germany, in Lubeck now.

The rest of my time in Copenhagen was wonderful. Only had a few hours in Malmo before the sun went down, but saw some things.

The ferry ride over to Lubeck was interesting - had my own private cabin, which was nice. Most of the rest of the people taking this ferry were truckers, and it felt very odd to be sitting in a dining hall eating dinner (which was a wonderful buffet of all sorts of traditional Scandinavian and German food) with two hundred or so men, not a woman in sight except for the bartender. I saw some other women later on, but not during dinner.

Arrived in Lubeck early in the morning, and made my way to my Couchsurfing host's. We've had a great time exploring the city and cooking food. Last night we also went to a goth event, which involved a lot of good music and dancing until 4am.

Tomorrow, onwards to Berlin!

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Hamburg and Copenhagen

So the rest of my time in Hamburg was spent visiting a variety of unusual museums (spices, Afghanistan, etc.), and following up on the Camino. I lost it in a few spots, but was then pointed in the right direction by a priest at one of the churches it passed, and then followed it along the waterfront for several kilometres.

Now I've made my way to Copenhagen, where I've been having a good time relaxing at a Couchsurfer's. I've visited a few cemeteries, one of which had a memorial to Latvian DPs (Displaced Persons) who died while living there in the years following the war. Saw the Little Mermaid - she was actually bigger than I'd been led to believe.

Saw the Parliament building, the Stock Exchange building and the "Freetown" of Christiana today. Also been enjoying food a lot.

Tomorrow I explore some museums, Thursday I go north to Elsinore for the day, then Friday over to Malmo, from where in the evening I will take the ferry back to Germany.

Goodnight!

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Bremen!

I had a wonderful time in Bremen. Another lovely Couchsurfing experience with lots of yummy food.

I also visited the Emigration Center in Bremerhaven - a port from which over 7 million people departed for the New World, most of them German or Eastern European. It was very interesting, I provide a more thorough review on my genealogy blog.

Bremen is quite lovely - and, it appears, very few English-speaking tourists, since many people I encountered, even those working in tourist-oriented establishments, did not speak much, if any, English. Compared to most of the rest of the cities I've visited thus far, it was very calm.

The highlight of my day exploring Bremen was an old warehouse in the Schnoor district of Bremen that back in the day belonged to a Saint James charitable organization, and now houses a live-action museum of sorts - people dressed in period costumes that tell you about the economic and social life in the city (or, in the case of me and the two Lithuanian girls I was going on the tour with, hear the intrepretation from our English-speaking guide). One of the people was even dressed as Saint James, scallop shells and all. I made sure to get a picture of myself with him.

Today I made my way to Hamburg, and as seems typical at this point, immediately stumbled upon the Jakobikirche (Saint James church). After exploring the outside of it (one set of doors even detailed the life of Saint James), I made my way towards the Rathaus (town hall), then intending to visit some of the smaller museums along the river.

When I made it to the Rathaus, however, this plan was aborted in favour of a new one, for when I reached the corner of the square and happened to look up to the street signs standing there, on a sticker on the pole I saw a stylized yellow shell on a blue background with the caption "Pilgerweg" - I had had once again managed to inadvertently find the Camino! As a result, I started following it. Lost it by the Saint Michael church for a bit - as is typical, the Camino tends to take unpredictable paths when it approaches churches of note - but found it again, and followed it until it approached the neighbourhood of my hostel, at which point I veered off to pass through the Old Elbe Tunnel and then wander back towards the centre of town along the harbour. I will pick up the Camino again in the following days. I'm curious to see how far it goes!

Tomorrow, however, on the menu is the BallinStadt, the emigration museum here in Hamburg. Good night!

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Belgium

I guess I last updated in Brussels?

Well, finishing off the Brussels adventure.... followed the Camino through Brussels, where the markings ended at a stone monument given to the city of Brussels by the province of Galicia (the province of Spain where Santiago de Compostela is found).

At my Couchsurfing host's, we also had a sushi party with some other friends, where we rolled our own sushi and then had chocolate-tasting for dessert (as well as ice cream).

Then it was on to Ghent, where I visited Saint Bavo's Cathedral, several other churches, the Castle of the Counts and went up in the Belfry. I had another great experience Couchsurfing where we had a fondue party. I love cheese fondue! And Ceaser salad. And of course more chocolate. In Ghent I also had the best chocolate milkshake ever, at a place called Quetzal: De Chocoladebar.

Now I'm in Bruges, where I have visited a bunch of different museums (another chocolate one of course, as well as one dedicated to fries), as well as the Basilica of the Holy Blood. Been having a good time Couchsurfing as well.

Today I went on a sort of daytrip from Bruges, which took the form of a 35km round-trip bicycle ride to Sluis in the Netherlands and back, passing through several small villages such as Hoeke, Damme and Oostkerke. In Hoeke, I happened to stumble across another Saint James church!

Now I am very tired from that long trip, so I will be happy to spend several hours relaxing on a train tomorrow on the way to Bremen. Germany awaits!

Monday, November 2, 2009

Brussels

Today is my last day in Brussels.

I have explored many different things, highlights being the Chocolate Museum (of course) and an exhibit of controversial photographs.

I'm also embarking on a tasting mission of many of the chocolatiers here in Brussels, to determine which one is The Best. My Couchsurfing host is also helping me in this venture. I've got chocolates from ten different chocolatiers that we're slowly going through.

Yesterday while I was writing down the information about the chocolates I'd just bought at Godiva, I stumbled - almost quite literally - over a metallic scallop shell set in the pavement. Why is this significant? This tells me that the Camino is alive and well in Brussels! I followed the way it pointed and found one other one, but I know there are more and now the Internet has given me the precise route, so this afternoon I am going to go out and follow them!

And eat more chocolate of course.

Tomorrow - on to Ghent!